Reviewed: Air Jordan 4 Retro "Imperial Purple"

The 4 is a busy shoe by design — mesh netting, plastic lace wings, a heel tab, a visible Air unit — and most colourways try to calm that down. This one does the opposite.

The colour

The upper is purple suede, deep and slightly dusty rather than bright. Against it: mint green on the lace wings and the eyelets, yellow on the tongue Jumpman and the heel tab, black on the mesh netting, and a sail midsole. Four colours plus the base, on a silhouette that already has a lot going on.

It works because the purple is muted. A saturated purple with the same accents would be a costume; this reads like a colourway someone thought about.

Suede, and what it costs you

Suede is the reason this looks as good as it does and the reason it needs care. It marks with water, it flattens where it creases, and a scuff on suede does not wipe off the way it does on leather. A brush and a suede eraser will handle most of it. Rain will not be handled.

If you want a 4 you can wear in any weather, buy a leather pair and keep this for dry days.

Sizing

The 4 runs true to size and is roomier than the 11. The lace wings let you tune the width — pulling them in tightens the midfoot considerably, and most people lace them too loose and then complain the shoe feels sloppy. Use them.

Who it's for

This is the anchor of a fit, not a supporting piece. Wear it with something plain — black denim, a grey tee, a plain cargo — and let the shoe do the talking. Put it with a rhinestone jean and a graphic tee and the whole thing collapses into noise. If you want a Jordan that disappears into an outfit, this is the wrong one and the black 6 is the right one.

$329.99.

Shop the Nike Air Jordan 4 Retro Imperial Purple/Multi-Color — free US shipping over $150.